Experts in fireplaces
Our friendly staff and technicians have extensive experience in the hearth industry
Wood Fireplace Care & Tips
During constant use, ashes should be removed every few days. The Ash Drawer features a convenient ash drawer for easy removal of ashes.
– Do not allow ashes to build up to the loading doors! Only remove ashes when the fire has died down. Even then, expect to find a few hot embers.
– Please take care to prevent the build-up of ash around the start-up air housing located inside the stove box, near the pilot.
– Never start a fire if the ash plug and ash drawer are not in place. This will cause overfiring which can cause excessive warping of the stove. Evidence of overfiring can void the warranty on your stove.
– The firebricks are brittle and can be damaged if the plug is replaced carelessly or pieces that are too large are forced through the hole.
Do not permit any creosote or soot build-up in the chimney system. If you detect any build-up contact a qualified chimney sweep or clean it yourself. Perform the following steps:
– Remove the first secondary air tube and baffles.
– Remove the termination cap by removing the screws and lifting.
– Make sure fireplace doors are shut to prevent soot and dirt from entering the loom.
– Clean chimney with either nylon or steel brush.
– Replace chimney cap.
– Re-install baffles and secondary tubes.
Both the primary and air wash drafts are controlled by the control handle located on the right side of the unit (when facing the unit). To increase your draft – push lever to the back, and to decrease – pull lever to the front. All units have a secondary draft system that continually allows combustion air to the induction ports at the bottom of the firebox, just below the rear cover.
When your installation is completed and inspected you are ready for your first fire.
– Open control fully.
– Open firebox door and build a small fire using paper and dry kindling on the firebrick hearth. Secure door on the firebox and wait a few minutes for a good updraft in the flue to establish the fire. (Leaving the door slightly open will help your fire start more rapidly.) CAUTION: Never leave unit unattended if door is left open. This procedure is for fire start-up only, as unit may overheat if door is left open for too long.
– With the draft still in the fully open position add two or three seasoned logs to your fire. Form a trench in the ash bed to allow air to reach the rear of the firebox prior to closing the door.
– After about 45 minutes, when your wood has begun to burn strongly, adjust your draft control down to keep the fire at a moderate level. WARNING: Never build a roaring fire in a cold stove. Always warm your stove up slowly!
– Once a bed of coals has been established on the firebrick hearth, you may adjust the draft control to a low setting to operate the unit at its most efficient mode.
– During the first few fires, keep the combustion rate at a moderate level and avoid a large fire. Only after 5 or 6 such fires can you operate the stove at its maximum setting, and only after the metal has been warmed.
– For the first few days, the stove will give off an odour from the paint. This is to be expected as the high temperature paint becomes seasoned. Windows and/or doors should be left open to provide adequate ventilation while this temporary condition exists. Burning the stove at a very high temperature the first few times may damage the paint. Burn fires at a moderate level the first few days.
– Do not place anything on the stove top during the curing process. This may result in damage to your paint finish.
– During the first few days it may be more difficult to start the fire. As you dry out your firebrick and your masonry flue, your draft will increase.
– For those units installed at higher elevations or into sub-standard masonry fireplaces, drafting problems may occur. Consult an experienced dealer or mason on methods of increasing your draft.
– Some cracking and popping noises may be experienced during the heating up process. These noises will be minimal when your unit reaches temperature.
– Before opening your door to reload, open draft fully for approximately 10 to 15 seconds until fire has been re-established. This will minimize any smoking.
– All fuel burning appliances consume oxygen during operation. It is important that you supply a source of fresh air to your unit while burning. A slightly opened window is sufficient for the purpose. If you also have a fireplace in your home, a downdraft may be created by your Hampton Stove causing a draft down your chimney. If this occurs, slightly open a window near your unit. CAUTION: If the body of your unit, flue baffle or any part of the chimney connector starts to glow, you are overfiring. Stop loading fuel immediately and close the draft control until the glow has completely subsided.
– Green or wet wood is not recommended for your unit. If you must add wet or green fuel, open the draft control fully until all moisture has been dispersed by the intense fire. Once all moisture has been removed, the draft control may be adjusted to maintain the fire.
– If you have been burning your stove on a low draft, use caution when opening the door. After opening the damper, open the door a crack, and allow the fire to adjust before fully opening the door.
– The controls of your unit or the air supply passages should not be altered to increase firing for any reason.
– If you burn the unit too slowly or at too low a setting your unit will not be operating as efficiently as it can. An easy rule of thumb says that if your glass is clean, then your flue is clean and your exhaust is clean. Burn the stove hot enough to keep your glass clean and you won’t need to clean your flue as often.
Maintenance – Door Hinges
Grease door hinges with high temperature grease regularly for smooth operation and to avoid squeaks.
Maintenance – Glass Cleaning
Only clean your glass window when it is cool. Your local retailer can supply you with a recommended glass cleaner if plain water and a soft cloth does not remove all deposits. Do not use oven cleaner on the glass as it will etch the glass.
Do not use any type of abrasive cleaner to clean glass.
Maintenance – Glass Removal & Replacement
Allow the stove to cool before removing or replacing glass. Remove the door from the fireplace and remove the glass retainer. Use caution when removing broken glass to avoid injury. When placing the replacement glass in the door, make sure that the glass gasketing will properly seal your unit. Replace the retainer and tighten securely, but do not wrench down on the glass as this may cause breakage. Do not substitute materials. If your glass door breaks, do not use your unit until it has been replaced.
Safety Guidelines And Warnings
– Never use gasoline, gasoline type lantern fuels, kerosene, charcoal lighter fuel, or similar liquids to start or ‘freshen up’ a fire in your heater. Keep all such liquids well away from the heater while it is in use.
– Keep the door closed during operation and maintain all seals in good condition.
– Do not burn any quantities of paper, garbage, and never burn flammable fluids such as gasoline, naptha or engine oil in your stove.
– If you have smoke detectors, prevent smoke spillage as this may set off a false alarm.
– Do not overfire the heater. If the chimney connector, flue baffle or the stove top begins to glow, you are overfiring. Stop adding fuel and close the draft control. Overfiring can cause extensive damage to your stove including warping and premature steel corrosion. Overfiring will void your warranty.
– Do not permit creosote or soot build-up in the chimney system. Check and clean chimney at regular intervals. Failure to do so can result in a serious chimney fire.
– Your Regency wood appliance can be very hot. You may be seriously burned if you touch the stove while it is operating, keep children, clothing and furniture away. Warn children of the burn hazard.
– The stove consumes air while operating, provide adequate ventilation with an air duct or open a window while the stove is in use.
– Do not connect this unit to a chimney flue serving another appliance.
– Do not use grates or andirons or other methods for supporting fuel. Burn directly on the bricks.
– Open the draft control fully for 10 to 15 seconds prior to slowly opening the door when refuelling the fire.
– Do not connect your unit to any air distribution duct.
– Your woodstove should burn dry, standard firewood only. The use of cut lumber, plywood, “mill ends”, etc. is not allowed as this fuel can easily overheat your woodstove. Evidence of excessive overheating will void your warranty. As well, a large portion of sawmill waste is chemically treated lumber, which is illegal to burn in many areas. Salt drift wood and chemically treated fire logs also must not be burned in your woodstoves.
– Do not store any fuel closer than 2 feet from your unit. Do not place wood, paper, furniture, drapes or other combustibles near the appliance.
– WARNING: Do not operate without the Ash Plug properly seated.
– Do not operate with broken glass.
Store wood under cover, such as in a shed, or covered with a tarp, plastic, tar paper, sheets of scrap plywood, etc., as uncovered wood can absorb water from rain or snow, delaying the seasoning process.
Air Control / Air Inlet Control
The means by which the amount of air entering the air inlet is regulated.
The engineered port(s) of entry for combustion air into a controlled combustion, solid fuel burning appliance.
Stainless steel air tubes inject secondary air into the firebox to create the reburn of the gases. The air tubes provide for a cleaner, more complete combustion.
A stove in which a large fire can be suffocated by shutting the air inlets, resulting ultimately in a large mass of unburned fuel remaining in the stove.
The ratio between the air and fuel in a solid fuel appliance. One 1 pound of dry air occupies a volume of 13.315 cubic feet at 70 degrees F. Therefore, 35 pounds of air, the typical amount of air necessary to burn 1 pound of wood in a fireplace, occupies 466 cubic feet.
Engineered to keep your glass clean automatically by creating airflow across inside of glass. The stove must burn at maximum for 30 minutes for the airwash to occur.
A removable ash drawer for safe and easy clean up. Fits seamlessly into the design of the stove.
Heat reflective baffles are designed to reflect heat back into the firebox to enhance the reburn of the gases and to create chamber for secondary combustion. The baffles also improve the temperature distribution and efficiency of the firebox.
A motor driven fan helps distribute and circulate the warm air from your fireplace further into the room.
Combustion rate, usually expressed in pounds of fuel consumed per hour.
A material used in all Hampton fireplaces, stoves & inserts. Iron is heated to a liquid form and poured into molds.
Catalytic wood stoves and fireplace inserts have a catalytic combustor; ceramic honeycombed chambers coated with a metal catalyst, that works to increase the rate of combustion, lower the temperature at which the wood will burn. Catalytic converters need to be replaced after a certain number of hours of operation, and the converters can cost in excess of $150-300 every 2-3 years.
Ceramic glass is tested and certified to withstand very high temperatures. It allows heat to radiate through the no-glare glass which pushes even more heat into your room.
A structure built around, and enclosing, portions of the chimney on the exterior of the house.
A portion of the venting system, through which the flue gases are vented / exhausted to the outdoors.
Fire and building codes state that there should be a minimum distance between a fireplace or stove and any combustible objects such as furniture or carpets. These requirements must always be followed.
Any material constructed of or surfaced with wood, paper, natural or synthetic fiber cloth, plastic or any other which will ignite and burn, whether flame proofed or not and whether plastered or unplastered (Applies to walls, floors and ceilings in the context of hearth appliance clearances for safety).
The area where the mixing of combustion air and fuel occurs. This area includes the burner, brick panels, firebox, and a sealed door with glass.
Convection heat is a process of heat transfer where the cool room air picks up heat energy from the fireplace surface causing air currents that transport heat throughout the room. All Regency, Hampton & Excalibur gas fireboxes include an advanced air management system through which the room air circulates naturally by convection into your room.
The airmate helps direct the convection heat further into your room. Installing the convector airmate also allows you to install your Regency wood stove closer to the walls of your home.
A measure of firewood, equal to 4 ft. x 4ft. x 8 ft.
A simple and easy to use rod that controls the heat output and size of the fire in your wood appliance.
The percentage of heat that goes into the room instead of up the chimney.
Unburned gases and smoke left after combustion.
A permanent baked on heat-resistant, glossy, colored finish used on the outside of a cast iron stove.
The percentage of the total energy content of the fuel consumed that becomes useful heat in the house.
EPA Phase I And II
Environmental Protection Agency particulate emissions standards for solid-fuel stoves, designed to reduce pollution. Implemented in 1988 (phase I) and 1990 (Phase II).
Environmental Protection Agency. Government regulations of wood and pellet burning appliances mandating that products sold after July 1, 1992, emit no more than 4.1 grams of particulate matter per hour for catalytic equipped units and no more than 7.5 grams for non-catalytic equipped units.
Factory Built Fireplace
A factory-built fireplace is actually a firebox enclosed within a steel cabinet.
The airtight inner chamber of a fireplace, stove or insert, where combustion takes place.
Noncombustible material, of a specified size, thickness, material and conductivity placed under a solid fuel appliance; required to extend beyond the four sides of the appliance. Serves to protect combustible floor surfaces and framing. Please refer to your Regency owner’s manual for specific floor protection requirements.
Another word for vent, a passageway for gasses to exhaust through.
Ash that goes up the chimney, as opposed to ash that remains in the fuel-burning appliance.
A heating appliance (gas, wood or pellet) normally on legs or a pedestal, that is placed away from walls in a dwelling.
Gasketing (primarily ceramic rope gasketing) is used on all Regency, Hampton & Excalibur fireplaces, stoves and inserts to ensure a sealed air-tight firebox, producing optimum burn times and efficiencies.
The surface under and/or in front of your stove or fireplace, often made of brick, or tile.
Noncombustible floor protection extension beyond the opening of a fireplace or stove. The term is also sometimes used to denote the floor protector under or around any residential solid fuel-burning appliance.
Refers to a non-combustible protector used around appliances, or smoke-pipe, to reduce clearances. They work by absorbing or reflecting the heat from the fire.
A wood, gas or pellet burning unit designed to fit into an existing masonary opening or factory built fireplace.
A decorative shelf over and above the fireplace. They can be made of stone, brick, marble, concrete, wood or rock.
This is a term that describes anything constructed of stone, brick or tiles. In respect to fireplaces structures such as the mantel, hearth, surround and chimney are commonly made from these materials.
Chimney constructed on site of masonry and fire clay materials; construction requirements specified by code. Also refers to existing masonry chimneys of various constructions.
Condition in a home where the inside pressure is less than the outside pressure. This is often caused by appliances that draw room air (furnace, kitchen fans) and it can affect the performance of your stove or fireplace.
Regency uses non-catalytic technology which means that the airflow in the firebox is directed in such a way that smoke is reburned. This creates greater efficiency, a spectacular fire and results in cleaner emissions. By combining non-catalytic technology with durable construction, Regency builds wood fireplaces that are guaranteed to last.
Outside Air Kit
An outside air kit provides oxygen (combustion air) to your fireplace or stove from outside your home rather than from inside your home. The installation of an outside air kit is recommended for tightly constructed or well-insulated homes.
A base usually square in shape, used to raise up an insert in the existing fireplace to cover any tall openings. Also known as a hearth riser.
Primary air is the air used for the fire start up and to control the air flow to produce the optimal heat output and fire size for the stove. It is controlled by the home owner using a draft control rod.
Primary combustion takes place within the heavily insulated firebox that holds the wood. This is the process where the gases from the wood are released and are burned.
Heat that moves out in waves from a central point and heats objects in its path. The invisible and harmless radiation emitted by a hot object. This radiation is converted into heat when it is absorbed. The closer you get to a source of radiant heat the more heat you will feel.
A stove whose heat output is mostly in the form of radiant energy. The exterior of the stove is tremendously hot and room air circulates around the body of the stove giving off heat.
Refers to fuel wood that has been allowed to dry before burning. Seasoning generally takes 6 to 12 months. Wood burns much easier when its moisture content has been reduced. Freshly cut wood contains over 20 percent water. Burning dry wood also releases fewer by-products during combustion than freshly cut wood.
Combustion air directed downstream of the primary combustion zone (but still in the appliance) to support the combustion of remaining combustible gases; does not directly influence the rate of primary combustion.
The side shields of the Regency wood stoves insulates the stove to prevent heat loss and allows for convective air to be warmed against the side of the firebox.
Zero Clearance Fireplace
Zero clearance gas fireplaces are used in installations where there is no existing fireplace (new construction or renovation). These are factory-built metal fireplaces using a multi-layer construction (an inner & outer shell) which can safely be placed in direct contact (zero clearance) with combustible floors and walls.